The future of Vogue: Anna Wintour’s legacy and her potential replacement

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Anna Wintour steps down as Vogue’s top editor after years of shaping the fashion landscape

When Anna Wintour presented her initial edition of American Vogue at the end of 1988, the reaction from the magazine’s printer was surprising: “Was there an error?” The cover, showcasing model Michaela Bercu in a Christian Lacroix couture jacket combined with denim jeans, was a departure from the meticulously styled, formal portraits that had characterized the magazine for many years. The photograph was relaxed, taken outside, and embodied a spontaneous spirit that would represent a fresh era for Vogue.

That moment set the tone for Wintour’s vision—one that would reshape not only the magazine, but the fashion industry itself. She brought a sense of realism and accessibility to a publication once steeped in high glamour. The decision to feature a model in denim, albeit unintentionally due to a wardrobe mishap, marked a cultural shift. It signaled that fashion could belong on the street, not just on the runway.

Having made a name for herself at British Vogue, Wintour was brought in to revitalize the American edition, and over the next 37 years, she did just that. Under her leadership, the magazine moved with confidence through the supermodel era, the rise of grunge, the dominance of celebrity culture, and the evolution toward digital-first storytelling. Throughout, Wintour maintained an acute awareness of what fashion meant to culture at large—and how it could influence more than clothing.

This week, Wintour announced she would be stepping down from her role as editor-in-chief of Vogue, wrapping up one of the most significant editorial tenures in the fashion world. Even though she will continue as chief content officer at Condé Nast—a position she has held since 2020—her departure from the magazine’s editorial helm signifies the conclusion of a remarkable chapter.

Wintour’s influence with Vogue reaches well past the confines of its publication. She altered the standards of fashion covers, prominently incorporating celebrities into what was once an exclusive domain for models. During her initial year, she featured Madonna on the cover—an unexpected decision that initiated a fresh blend of fashion and pop culture. This marked the start of a shift that would ultimately include reality TV personalities, political leaders, and cultural icons gracing the magazine’s covers.

Throughout her time at Vogue, Wintour attentively responded to public preferences, adjusting the magazine’s approach to reflect broader trends in media and consumer behavior. Her editorial decisions often had real-world effects. For instance, she played a significant role in bringing figures like Kim Kardashian and Ivanka Trump into mainstream fashion discussions, offering them a platform that significantly amplified their visibility.

This editorial influence did not go unchallenged. Wintour’s choices occasionally faced opposition, like the debated 2008 magazine cover with LeBron James and Gisele Bündchen, which stirred discussions on racial imagery and representation. Nevertheless, these instances only solidified the truth that Wintour had emerged as a key player in the conversation about fashion and influence.

Her singular sense of style, marked by her signature bob hairstyle and renowned sunglasses, became closely tied to her professional persona. Wintour’s presence at the Met Gala, the much-desired acclaim of the September issue, along with various references to her likeness in pop culture (such as the fictional Miranda Priestly in The Devil Wears Prada) solidified her standing as a cultural icon.

Despite the air of mystique surrounding her public persona, Wintour often downplayed the attention on her image. She expressed more interest in creativity and the direction of the publications she led, rather than in how she was perceived personally. That said, her influence was inescapable, and she often leaned into it with self-awareness, attending events like The Devil Wears Prada musical gala, embracing the comparisons without directly confirming them.

Throughout her career, Wintour adeptly preserved her influence within a consistently evolving industry. Her capability to remain relevant amidst significant shifts in media—from traditional magazines to digital platforms—highlights her adaptability and strategic foresight. She recognized early on the importance of an online presence, even as traditional print outlets struggled to keep their audience. Although some critics contended there was an excessive emphasis on celebrity stories in the digital age, Wintour maintained that these choices were crucial for retaining cultural relevance.

Former colleagues and fashion insiders suggest that Wintour’s decision to step back was likely her own. As chief content officer, she still holds sway over Vogue and other major Condé Nast titles, and will reportedly have a say in choosing her successor. The speculation surrounding that choice is already building.

Potential candidates include Eva Chen, director of fashion partnerships at Instagram, who brings a wealth of digital experience to the table—a crucial asset in today’s media landscape. Also frequently mentioned is Chioma Nnadi, currently overseeing editorial content at British Vogue, and widely viewed as one of Wintour’s protégés. Her rise within the organization has been watched closely, and she represents a potential continuation of Wintour’s legacy with a new generational lens.

Other people mentioned include Amy Astley, who used to be in charge of Teen Vogue and currently leads Architectural Digest, as well as senior editors like Chloe Schama and Chloe Malle. Furthermore, Wintour’s daughter, Bee Shaffer Carrozzini, involved in film production within the fashion realm, has also been part of the discussions—though such forecasts are entirely conjectural.

As Wintour steps away from the magazine she helped shape into a global authority, industry observers are left to consider the weight of her influence. Fashion has changed dramatically during her tenure—not only in style but in its place within cultural and political discourse. Issues like sustainability, ethical labor practices, and digital democratization have transformed fashion from a niche interest into a broader conversation about identity, values, and social change.

Wintour, often seen as an influential person in the elite fashion sphere, contributed to making it more approachable—while still maintaining the exceptional levels of style and inventiveness that Vogue is known for. Her ability to merge exclusivity with widespread attraction, and luxury fashion with everyday relevance, is possibly her most lasting accomplishment.

As the sector considers the future, the task for the person following in her footsteps will be to keep managing an ever-changing environment. Juggling the business demands of contemporary media with the cultural duties now associated with fashion won’t be simple. However, Wintour has already contributed to paving this path.

In several ways, her presence at the nuptials of Jeff Bezos and Lauren Sánchez earlier this year underscored her unique cultural influence. By showcasing Sánchez on the front page in 2023, Wintour was more than a participant at the event—she had helped shape the narrative around it.

For all her accomplishments in the editorial world, Wintour’s most significant impact may be the manner in which she broadened the significance of fashion beyond its conventional limits. She not only captured trends—she shaped them, foresaw them, and, in numerous instances, originated them.

As Anna Wintour exits the editor-in-chief role, Vogue and the broader fashion world enter a period of reflection and transition. Her departure is not just the end of an era—it’s a moment to consider what comes next for a publication, and an industry, that she helped define.

By Aiden Murphy